#16 a quick stop in Seoul


Seoul is somewhere that’s been on my bucket list for years now and only grown more so as k-culture has grown more and more present in the UK and US, so it was amazing to finally get to visit!

For various reasons we unfortunately had to cut our time in South Korea short, meaning we only spent time in Seoul and did not visit other areas like Jeju Island or Busan that I had hoped to. That said, we had such an amazing time here and managed to cover almost everything recommended to us by South Korean friends.


A few highlights from this short but sweet stop:

  • Gyeongbok Palace & changing of the guards - a classic tourist stop recommended in almost every article I read and by friends, so definitely not something to miss! Note this is free entry if you are wearing a hanbok, which you can rent from nearby shops. We didn’t do this but watching the changing of the guard and seeing everyone in traditional dress is pretty special and not something you can experience at many historical sights elsewhere in the world. There are multiple royal palaces nearby but this is the biggest.

  • Bukchon Hanok Village - another classic tourist stop, make sure to go early to appreciate the area and architecture before the crowds arrive. The advantage of traveling in off-season is how much quieter everything is, so we were fortunate to avoid any major crowds. There are several teashops and cafes within the area and some shops to wander through, so you can experience the interiors of these traditional buildings.

  • Insadong area - nearby the above spots, nice for wandering, and full of shops and restaurants. We found ourselves walking through here multiple times just by chance to get between specific restaurants and sights.

  • Nonfiction & Tamburins - South Korean perfume and scent stores, typically with beautiful interiors. These products would make gorgeous souvenirs if only I’d had room - the downside of traveling with only a carry-on for 2 months!

  • Gaeseong Traditional Dumpling House - Michelin-recommended dumpling restaurant where all the dumplings are made by hand. It’s been family-run for years through 3 generations and is housed in a traditional hanok.

  • Daily Beer - a fun, central spot serving beers in Pyrex jugs and mountains of Korean Fried Chicken. They also had a great tteokbokki and it has a super lively atmosphere at night, seemingly full of people after work grabbing a quick drink and dinner.

  • Ggupdang - Michelin-recommended K-BBQ. I’m not a big pork-eater but this was something else.

  • Namsan Mountain Park, city wall hikes, and viewpoint - Seoul is surrounded by mountains which make for great hikes and greenery in the city, and getting up to the top of these for a few of city from above is such a great way to appreciate the scale and modernity of the city.

  • And of course, coffee - I’d heard mixed things about the specialty coffee scene in Seoul but for a short trip we were well-covered! A few places we stopped at were Felt Coffee, Kotton, Cafe Onion, Fritz Coffee Company, Komfortabel, Hitcoffee Roasters, and Anthracite.

And a few things we didn’t do, but I’d love to in a future trip:

  • Jeongdong Observatory - a small observation deck with views over the city, but only open during specific days in the week and requires reservation as it’s based in a government building.

  • National Museum of Korean Contemporary History - this museum focuses on Korea’s 20th century, most of which is easy to forget when walking around the ultra-modern city that stands today.

  • Visit a spa and/or experience K-beauty - of course I made a few stops in Olive Young, but I’d have loved to get a full range of treatments.

I’d highly recommend a stop here if you get the chance or if visiting Japan (Seoul is only a 2 hour flight away!).

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#17 Hong Kong highlights

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#15 Kyoto on film